A Call to Arms

An old friend once posited, upon my return from studying abroad in Florence, Italy: 

"Ever notice how Italians dress really well, but they wear the same things every day?"

I concur.  Italians have impeccable style.  From the old men in their felt hats and leather-collared jackets, walking up the hilly streets of Florence, to the posh, red-lipstick women in Milan-- these people look good.  They look interesting and refined.  They look crisp yet antiqued.  Their fabrics seem richer, hues- deeper, textures- more touchable.  

Though I lived in a suburb of Florence, and though I lived in an apartment with real-life Italian neighbors, I didn't know any natives well enough to realize whether or not they wore the same things.  But it is pretty clear from just a stroll down the street, that Italians make a beautiful picture.

In my Italian language class at the University of Florence, our teacher read to us a list of things that Italians commonly believe to be American characteristics.  Among them:  all Americans walk around with guns, Americans are fat, and Americans are bad dressers.

Admittedly, I went to Italy with a suitcase full of Gap jeans and t-shirts.  But while I was there I stocked up on some of the nicest pieces I've ever owned-- sun dresses, a white linen suit, flowery blouses, an a-line khaki skirt, a wool shawl-- clothes I still have and wear to this day (my trip was in 2001).  Before I returned home, I filled the dumpster outside my apartment on Via Pompeo Neri, with all the Gap clothes I'd brought.

I look around a lot.  I like to watch people- even if it's just for the few minutes it takes me to walk to the subway.  One of the reasons I love New York City is because of all the different styles that people dare to traipse in.  

But lately, I've been noticing New Yorkers are looking... drab.  And maybe it's all in my head, but I'm thinking it has everything to do with the economy.  

I'm noticing lots of fading dye jobs-- lots of roots coming in.  Lots of old, ill-fitting old winter coats and mis-matched hats and gloves.  I'm noticing more than the usual two purses per woman- now I'm noticing many women with four!  And they're all ratty- lunch bags and plastic bags and pleather purses with the stitching coming undone...

I'm not judging others.  I've been feeling drab lately too.  I feel kinda bummed that a new jacket, new boots, scarf are not in my near future.  I can see the disappointment wearing on my appearance. I've got tired eyes, and disheveled hair-- I carry 18 Tupperwares to work every day, so that's two extra bags right there.

Look, the economy's rotten, the forecast is rotten, and right now the future looks foggy and dim.  But I'm writing on this fine Wednesday to say, to suggest, that we as Americans use this downturn as an opportunity to improve our moods and possibly sunny our horizons, and in the process, change global perception of American fashion.

We should not do what all those quick fashion segments on the Today show tell us we can cheaply do and should do to "still look great, even during a bad economy"- go to Target and buy trends for pennies.  Do not do this.  Do not go to Kohls and buy the Vera Wang line of acrylic blend blouses (even though I think Vera is a great designer, and a great woman). 

     

With our moods plummeting, now is not the time to buy clothes that will unravel or pill or stretch after just a few washes.  Now is not the time to buy vinyl pumps.  Now isn't the time for fly-by-night trends that are easily gotten and easily forgotten.  

Now is the time to dig into our deep, American closets and find the splurges from years past-- find and wear the purchases we made when we weren't sad or scared.  

We should wear a great dress to work, wear wide-leg slacks to go shopping, wear a ruffle blouse to walk the dog.  What are you saving those things for?  Don't hide your love away!  You should do things to feel great when times are tough.  Just like our pioneer women heritage- we are a strong breed!  What would our forefathers have wanted us to do?? Think of it as an act of patriotism- our civic duty!  We should rise to the occasion!  Do you think Coco Chanel would have worn sneakers and jeans to work during the war, during poverty, during her heartbreaks?  No!!  She didn't!  She made fashionable, cutting edge hats by hand and wore them!  OK, Coco's not an American example, but still.  She's great inspiration.

So we dig up our good china, and we should take care of it.  Hand wash and dry clean and line dry.  

And if we are to replenish our wardrobe, we should look for things that are 100%.  One hundred percent cotton, wool, linen, silk.  Look for quality fabrics- nothing see-through unless it's meant to be layered; no plastic woven into the seems.  We should look for things made by artisans, preferably not on an assembly line, preferably made by hand, "fatto a mano," as the Italians say.  With attention to detail and craft.

And yes, this will cost more, but that's OK because we're simplifying.  We won't need a walk-in closet with revolving drawers and multiple racks.  That's not normal by global standards.  That's old-America.  This is new, shedding-our-bad-habits America.  Change!  Hope!  Remember?  

And it's OK to wear things more than once.  If it really is good quality, and if we really do care for it, it'll last our wear and tear.

So join me in this calling.  No more hiding behind the ephemeral razzle dazzle of pastel plastic jewelry.  We are shedding our made-in-China skins.  We are new America.